Heads up: many models on this page are AI-generated or uploaded untested. They may be misconfigured for the intended application — check the dimensions and tolerances, and verify or edit the model before printing or relying on it.*
90/45 Chisel Paring Guide Block
A 100 mm long, hollow-ribbed guide block for paring with a chisel. Clamp it on the work and run the chisel's flat back down the dead-flat 90° face to trim tenon shoulders and dovetail baselines square, or down the 45° face to clean up mitres and chamfers. The profile is 60 x 40 mm, and the block is printed on its end so both guide faces come out as smooth, accurate perimeter walls with sharp reference edges.
2020 Extrusion 90/45 Hacksaw Cut Guide
This hacksaw guide is a 110 mm channel with a 20.4 mm slot that holds 2020 aluminium extrusion. It has 1.3 mm kerf slots for square 90° and 45° mitre cuts, and an M5 thumbscrew with a captured nut clamps the extrusion against the far wall. The 8 mm walls stand 30 mm tall so they guide the blade through the full 20 mm profile, and grooves under each slot let the blade cut all the way through.
Six-Lane Crimp Terminal Holding Block
A 70 x 36 x 12 mm bench block with six graduated channels (1.2 to 3.2 mm wide) that hold Dupont, JST-XH/PH and similar small crimp terminals flat and straight while the barrel overhangs the front edge. A 45° undercut gives the lower crimper jaw room to close squarely without bending the terminal. Strip-length holes in the back face (3, 5 and 7 mm deep, 2.4 mm bore) let you gauge stripped conductor length before you crimp.
Flagged: lifting or tensioned load. Not for safety-critical use without independent engineering review.
Magnetic 1:6 And 1:8 Dovetail Saw Guide
L-shaped hand-saw guide that hooks over the end of a board and holds a dovetail saw plate flat against a magnetic face angled 1:6 (9.5°) at one end and 1:8 (7.1°) at the other, so every tail and pin is sawn to the layout line with no drift. Takes six common 10 × 3 mm neodymium disc magnets (10.3 mm pockets, 3.2 mm deep, three per end, glue in flush), legs are 15 mm thick with 20 mm fences for stock up to 20 mm (3/4 in); 55 mm long, 43 mm high as printed. Use it from the far face of the board for the opposite lean and turn it 90° to saw pins. Six dimples mark the 1:6 end, eight mark the 1:8 end.
Hole Saw Enlarging Centering Cone
This cone stops a hole saw from wandering when you enlarge an existing 14–50 mm hole. You put the cone on a scrap board under the workpiece and let the old hole settle onto its 30° slope, which centres the hole. The arbor pilot bit then runs into a 6.7 mm guide bore that fits 1/4 in and 6 mm pilot bits. The cone is 56 mm across and 13.4 mm tall, has sight rings at 20, 30 and 40 mm hole diameters, and has three counterbored #6 screw holes for fixing it to the scrap board.
608 Bearing Thin Rip Jig
A 150 x 50 x 8 mm table saw thin-rip jig. The stop is a 608 bearing (8 x 22 x 7 mm) on an 8 mm steel pin that sits in an 8.3 mm bore, so the stock rolls past it and doesn't rub or burn. It goes left of the blade so you can cut repeatable strips without trapping the offcut between the blade and fence. Two 5.5 mm slots with 5 mm tick marks bolt it to a hardwood miter-slot runner or T-track using #8, M4 or M5 screws, so it fits whatever slot your saw has.
Four-Size Dowel Flush-Cut Saw Guard
This 150 x 50 mm guard plate is 2 mm thick. You slip it over a protruding 6, 8, 10 or 12 mm dowel or plug, then lay a flush-cut saw flat on the plate so the teeth can't scratch the finished surface. It leaves a 2 mm stub to sand off, and a 14 x 30 mm slot covers wedges and tenon ends. Dimples next to each hole mark its size, and a 22 mm grip block with a thumb scoop holds the plate down.
Pop Rivet Drill-Out Centering Guide
A handled drill guide for removing 3.2, 4.0 and 4.8 mm (1/8, 5/32, 3/16 in) blind rivets cleanly. A 45° cone on the underside centres each bore on the dome head, and a 22 mm long slip-fit bore (bit + 0.3 mm) keeps the drill straight, so the hole stays round and the casement-window arm, garage-door hinge or bracket can be riveted again.
Rod End Tap-Drill Centring Guide
A three-station drill guide for putting a centred tap hole in the end of round stock. Slip the cut end of a 6 mm rod (M3, 2.5 mm drill) or an 8 mm rod (M4, 3.3 mm drill, or M5, 4.2 mm drill) into a 20 mm-deep socket, then drill through the coaxial 14 mm-long guide bore. You end up with steel or aluminium standoffs and axles tapped on-centre. The block is 64 x 24 x 34 mm, and dimples on top (1, 2 or 3 dots) mark each station.
Five-Mandrel Coil Spring Winding Block
A hand-held block for winding your own coil springs on 3, 4, 5, 6 or 8 mm steel rod mandrels. Each 22 mm deep slip-fit bore (rod + 0.3 mm) has a flared 1.8 mm wire-feed channel tangent to it, sized for 0.5–1.2 mm music wire. Chuck the rod in a drill, hold the 84 x 28 x 22 mm block and walk it down the rod, and you get a custom spring for a latch, a detent or a robot joint without buying a whole assortment kit.
Radial Lead Five-Pitch Forming Jig
This bench jig has five forming blades for bending the leads of radial parts like LEDs, electrolytic capacitors and TO-92 transistors. It spreads the 2.54 mm factory lead spacing to 3.5, 5.08, 7.62, 10.16 or 12.7 mm (perfboard 2-5 hole pitch). Each blade is the target pitch minus 0.6 mm wide, which leaves room for the lead itself. You press the part down over the chamfered blade top, and the leads end up parallel and spaced right. The 10 mm blade height plus the deck gives every lead the same trim length. The base is 90 x 44 mm and the jig is 14 mm tall overall.
32/64/96 mm Drawer Slide Spacer Block
This is a ribbed 32 x 64 x 96 mm spacer block for installing drawer slides. It sets the slide 32, 64 or 96 mm above the cabinet floor, depending on which face it rests on, so you can screw the slide down level without measuring each one. A V-groove 37 mm from one end lets you mark the usual 37 mm 32 mm-system setback from the cabinet front. The block is hollow, with a centre rib and 3 mm walls, so it uses about 60 cm³ of plastic.
2x4 Face-Centering Bolt Hole Drill Guide
A saddle jig for the 89 mm (3-1/2 in) face of a 2x4. Its 90 mm channel and two 16 mm fences centre it on the board automatically. Three 14 mm-long guide bores (6.6, 8.2 and 9.8 mm, for 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 in bits) keep the drill square, so through-holes for carriage bolts and lag bolts land on the centreline. Sight notches at each end line the jig up on a pencil mark.
Caulk Nozzle 45° Bead-Size Cutting Guide
This 100 x 30 x 36 mm block has a 45° knife ramp and five sizing holes for common caulk bead sizes: 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 in (3.2–9.5 mm). Push a cartridge nozzle up through a 13 mm bore until it jams in the 3.5 mm sizing land, then slice flush along the ramp. You get a clean 45° opening at the bead size you picked, every time, with no guessing on a tapered tip.
Twin-Pin Board Edge Center Marker
Two 6 mm steel dowel pins press into 6.05 mm bores 100 mm apart, with a pencil clamped exactly halfway between them. Set the pins on either face of a board up to 94 mm thick, twist until both pins touch, and slide it along to draw a true centre line. The 8.2 mm pencil bore has a 2.5 mm split and an M3 pinch screw with a captured nut, so it grips pencils from about 7.4 to 8.2 mm. The bar is 120 x 24 x 12 mm.
Hand Saw Bench Hook With 90/45 Kerfs
This 140 x 80 mm bench hook helps you crosscut small stock with a hand saw. A 12 mm cleat underneath hooks over the front edge of the bench. You push the work back against a 22 mm fence, which has 2 mm saw kerfs cut at 90° and 45°. The part prints on its edge, so the saw and cleat forces act along the layers instead of across them. An 8 mm hole lets you hang it on a pegboard hook.
18650 4x5 Spot-Weld Grid Jig
A 20-cell spot-welding jig for building battery packs (for example 4S5P or 5S4P) from 18650 cells (18.4 x 65 mm). The 18.9 mm pockets sit on a 20.5 mm pitch with 1.6 mm webs, so the cells stand square and evenly spaced. The jig is 108 x 104 x 14 mm. A 14 mm hole in each pocket floor lets you push the cells out. A side ledge has an end stop and cut grooves at 20.5 mm steps, so every nickel strip comes out the same length. Print two, one to cap each end of the pack.
Flagged: battery or DC power. Not for safety-critical use without independent engineering review.
Four-Groove Hand Drill Squaring Block
A 60 x 60 x 50 mm block for drilling straight with a hand drill. Each side has a 90° V-groove cut the full height, including through the base, at depths of 2, 4, 6 and 8 mm. Set it on the work, rest the bit in the V that fits, and drill: any bit from about 1.5 mm up to about 20 mm stays square to the surface, so the block doesn't depend on any exact bit size.
45 Degree Five-Size Angled Drill Guide
A clamp-down drilling jig with five 45° guide bores for 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 mm drill bits. It's for drilling toe-screw pilots, angled dowel holes and screw holes through a face frame, where a hand-held bit usually skates. Each bore is 0.3 mm over the bit size and runs about 45 mm along the bit. Every bore comes out 8 mm behind the front edge, marked by a V sight notch. The 120 x 56 x 32 mm block holds down with a clamp or two #8 screws through 4.5 mm holes in its flanges.
Four-Size Deck Board Gap Spacer
A reusable cross-shaped spacer for setting decking gaps. It has four 28 mm deep blades in 1/8, 3/16, 1/4 and 5/16 in (printed at 3.2, 4.8, 6.4 and 8.0 mm), and a 10 mm thick hub that sits on the board tops as a depth stop. Drop the blade you want between the boards, tap the next board up against it, then pull it out by the 14 mm finger hole. The drilled dots on the hub (1 to 4) tell you which size each blade is, and the 88 mm span keeps it from getting lost the way disposable wedges do.
Outlet Box Drywall Setback Gauge
A flat 120 x 45 x 6 mm step gauge for setting new-work electrical boxes flush with the finished wall. Three notches set the box's projection past the stud face at exactly 9.5, 12.7 and 15.9 mm (3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 in drywall); dimples next to each notch (1, 2, 3) show which is which. Rest the land on the stud, slide the box forward until its rim touches the back of the notch, then nail it, so you don't end up with recessed boxes that need box extenders.
Door Lockset Bore Drilling Template
This L-shaped jig hooks over the edge of a door and guides a 1/4 in (6.35 mm) pilot drill through 6.6 mm bores. It marks the centres for a standard 2-1/8 in (54 mm) knob or deadbolt face bore at either 2-3/8 in (60.3 mm) or 2-3/4 in (69.9 mm) backset, plus the matching 1 in edge bore centred in a 1-3/8 in (35 mm) or 1-3/4 in (44.5 mm) door. There is one row of holes for each door thickness, 24 mm apart, and each row has a V-notch at the end of the plate for lining it up with your pencil height mark. The whole part is about 106 x 60 x 55 mm.
Three-Size Tile Drill Guide With Water Cups
A 120 x 50 mm drill guide that you tape to glazed wall tile so the bit doesn't skid when you drill holes for towel bars, grab-bar anchors, shower caddies or toilet-roll holders. It has three 22 mm tall guide towers for 6, 8 and 10 mm tile or glass bits (bores 6.3, 8.3 and 10.3 mm). Each tower has a water cup on top that drips coolant down the bore to the bit tip, and V-notches on both edges line each tower up with your pencil crosshair.
V-Grip Drill Bit Depth Stop Collar
This slip-on depth stop collar fits any straight-shank drill bit from 3 to 8 mm. An M4 thumbscrew in a brass heat-set insert (5.5 mm bore) clamps the bit into a 90° V-channel, so one collar replaces a whole set of fixed-size stops. The 32 mm flange rests flat on the workpiece, which makes it good for repeatable shelf-pin, dowel and cam-lock re-drilling in flat-pack furniture repairs.